Tartan: A Pattern Full of History

Pattencionary, where we study a surface design-related term and use it as inspiration to create a new pattern.

When we think of tartan, we probably picture winter scarves, Scottish kilts, or school uniforms (In Colombia, nearly all girls' schools use tartan in their skirts or pinafores, mine was gray with burgundy stripes). But behind these squares lies an ancient story full of symbolism, identity, and evolution. Today, I’m sharing a summary of its origins, link to Scotland, prohibition, and how it’s made its way to the world’s most important fashion runways.

🧶 Over 3,000 Years of History

Although tartan is mainly associated with Scotland, its origins are much older. Woven fabrics with interlaced patterns resembling modern tartan have been discovered in the ancient mummies of the Tarim Basin (now part of China), dating back over 3,000 years.🔗 Learn more about the Tarim mummies

And in Scotland, the oldest known authentic tartan was found in the Glen Affric peat bog, dating between 1500 and 1600. This textile fragment—now recreated—is an invaluable tartan sample before its official registry.🔗 Read the article in The Guardian about Glen Affric

🏔️ In Scotland, First Regional Then Clan-Based

By the 16th century, tartans were regional identifiers. Each community wove fabrics using locally available dyes and materials, creating unique variations. Over time, these fabrics became associated with family clans such as the MacDonalds, Campbells, MacLeods, or Stewarts.

Adopting a tartan was more than aesthetic, it was a powerful symbol of belonging and territorial protection.🔗 Read the full tartan history at Lochcarron

⚔️ A Banned Fabric… and Its Revival

After the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745, tartan was banned by the British government. For nearly 40 years, wearing it was prohibited—until the 19th century, when it reemerged as a strong symbol of Scottish national identity.

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert further popularized tartan from their Scottish residence in Balmoral, incorporating it into nroyal clothing and home decor.

📚 Source: The Guardian – Oldest Scottish Tartan Recreated

👑 The Royal Stewart: A Royal Tartan

One of the most iconic tartans is the Royal Stewart, the official tartan of the British Royal House. Despite its royal lineage, it’s now commonly seen in everyday clothing, from scarves to designer pieces. This bright red pattern with green, yellow, and white lines is a modern tartan icon.

🗂️ Over 7,000 Registered Patterns

Today, there is an official record of tartans in Scotland: the Scottish Register of Tartans, which holds over 7,000 registered designs. It includes tartans for clans, regions, organizations, professions, events, and brands, and the number keeps growing!

🔗 Explore the Official Register

🔍 Tartan or Plaid? What's the Difference?

Though they look similar, tartan and plaid are not the same.

🔸 Tartan: a historic, named pattern with rules and registration. One of its key features is that the pattern is created through weaving the yarns.

🔸 Plaid: a generic fashion term for any checkered design. Unlike tartan, these patterns can be printed on all types of fabrics.

Tartan	Plaid
Wool or wool-blend fabric	Found on any fabric, including cotton and polyester
Specific registered design	Generic style
Linked to a clan or institution	Freely used in fashion
Has construction rules	More open and commercial

🔗 More on types of tartans and the difference with plaid

👗 Tartan Is Still in Style

This pattern has transcended time and remains alive in fashion, interior design, and branding. From luxury brands to streetwear, tartan continues to evolve.

In 2024 and 2025, renowned fashion houses like Dior and Vivienne Westwood featured tartan in their runway shows:

👠 Dior Resort 2025: presented in Scotland, with direct nods to traditional tartan.🔗 Explore the Dior Collection

👗 Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 24–25: featured her registered tartan, the MacAndreas, created in collaboration with Lochcarron of Scotland.🔗 View the Vivienne Westwood Collection

📷 See more examples of tartan through the years at WWD

🎨 As always, I used this nerdy research and exploration to create my own tartan-inspired print, and wow, the possibilities were endless. I spent a week playing with colors, line distribution, adding elements… and honestly, it was hard to choose a final version for this design exercise.

In the end, I went with this one, where I tilted the top lines 30 degrees to achieve a unique effect, still structured, grid-based, and of course, super colorful.

💬 And you? Have you ever used tartan?

Tartan is more than just a pattern, it’s a way of telling stories through design. Let me know, have you ever used it in one of your projects?

What term would you like to learn about in the next Pattencionary?